An Exploratory Study on Materials, Tools and Techniques of Phiribi Craft in Manipur, India

Abstract

Phiribi appliqué craft is a unique traditional textile art of Manipur that uses intricate fabric-cutting and hand sewing techniques to produce ornamental textile motifs.  In order to describe its technical processes and comprehend its craftsmanship structure, this research presents an exploratory study on the materials, tools and techniques used in Phiribi craft. The border works in the Phiribi garments meant for ladies of the ruling family, showcase skilled workmanship. The colour of the articles meant for personal use are of pale but clean hue of yellow and white, accentuated by application of black or yellow thread hemming stitches.  The study was carried out in the Imphal District of Manipur, using a descriptive research approach. Primary data were gathered through planned interview schedules with experienced artisans and award-winning practitioners of Phiribi craft. Secondary data were obtained from books, journals and online sources. The analysis finds that coloured threads, fine fabrics like silk, linen, velvet and funnel are the main materials used to create motifs. For cutting and outlining designs, traditional equipment used is carbon paper, scissors, hand needles, measuring tape, rulers, tracing paper, tailor's chalk and wooden blocks. The production method includes motif tracing, fabric folding, accurate cutting, symmetrical placement and delicate hand stitching using satin, buttonhole and hemming stitches. The study emphasises that despite the simplicity of the tools used, the craft was a labour-intensive process and requires practical knowledge that has been passed down through the centuries. The study highlights that there is a necessity of systematic documentation of these indigenous craft's for preservation, creative design and long-term growth.